F And B World : January-February 2010
January-February 2010 11 www.hip.ph E “Baking is a science. The art comes in during the assembly and decorating phase,” shares Chef Joey. “Not everyone can create baking formulas,” he says point blank. Getting off on the right foot means knowing the fundamentals by heart, and that includes selecting the finest ingredients, proper scaling and mise-en-place, mixing methods, tests for doneness, cooling and storing procedures . The road to perfection can be a long drive as Chef Joey himself also went through hits and misses. It took seven months before he perfected his own chocolate cake. The concept of the perfect chocolate cake can vary from one sweet tooth to the next. For Chef Joey, a dark, densely moist cake base enrobed with the most delicate frosting makes for a perfect ensemble. This includes a fine crumb structure with small, even air cells, and frosting that is “dense, yet light so when one takes a spoonful, it literally melts in the mouth.” The Perfect Cake To bake the perfect cake, one must pay close attention to the chemical reactions involved since any wrong move can be a letdown. Chef Joey explains, “For instance, the sugar cannot exceed the weight of the flour, otherwise you have to adjust the liquids, the eggs , and so on. The leavening should be controlled. Too much will make the cake crumbly, too little will make it very dense.” He also stresses the importance of watching for signs of excess liquid in the batter as this affects the cake’s texture. “Too little will make it dry, too much will create air tunnels.” And what kind of flour is to his liking? Soft wheat flour! “It’s locally made with my specifications—unbleached, non-bromated, and with only 9-11% of protein,” he states. The Perfect Chocolate As the designated “Philippine Ambassador” for Indonesian chocolate company Embassy of Chocolate, Chef Joey promotes Embassy s Tulip chocolate brand by conducting weekly rounds to various bakeshops and developing recipes. Chef Joey discovered a gem of a product especially in Tulip’s Bordeaux Cocoa Powder. Various kinds of chocolate fill the market shelves today such as cocoa powder, unsweetened, dark chocolate, milk chocolate, and semi-sweet or bittersweet chocolate. For the discerning baker, there are more sophisticated types such as couverture chocolate which is rich in cocoa butter and contains a high percentage of cocoa solids. Another one is compound chocolate, where cocoa solids are combined with vegetable fats, usually tropical fats and/or hydrogenated fats, as a replacement for cocoa butter. Primarily used for candy bar coatings, compound chocolate does not contain cocoa butter so tempering is not necessary. When choosing chocolate, remember that it is not the kind of chocolate, but the quality that matters. Chef Joey suggests, “Whatever the type of chocolate called for, choose the best and finest chocolate you can afford.” The Perfect Mix Together with business partner, Ken Subillaga, Chef Joey started Symphony Sweets with their signature product, the Supermoist Chocolate Cake—three layers of dark, moist, chocolate cake filled and frosted with Belgian chocolate ganache. It didn’t take long before this cake became a crowd favorite. Getting more inspired, they concocted “a chocolate cake that would end all chocolate cakes. A cake that is so devilishly sinful, undeniably rich, mind- blowingly chocolate, and decadently luxurious!” The result was The Ultimate Chocolate Cake—three layers of scrumptious chocolate cake, filled with raspberry compote and ganache made of three different types of chocolate sourced from Madagascar, Valenzuela, and Ecuador. The success of the Supermoist Chocolate Cake and The Ultimate Chocolate Cake became the talk of the town. But since the recipes remain top secret, Chef Joey got inspired in 2008 to combine all the dry ingredients, package it, and start selling it as his Ultramoist® Chocolate Cake Mix. “Just add water, eggs, and oil, and presto! You get exactly the same chocolate cake that we sell. The mixes are made by hand, individually, with no preservatives,” he explains. Sold under the Joey Prats Signature Desserts Label, also available is the Ultrafudgy® Brownie Mix and soon to hit the stands are the Ultrafluffy® Yellow Cake Mix and the Ultravelvet® Devil‘s Food Cake Mix. “Believe it or not, the cakes stay moist for up to 10 days,” he proudly claims. For this Valentine’s season, Chef Joey offers the Chocolate Spice Cake—three layers of Devil’s Food Cake delicately spiced with ginger, cardamom, cinnamon, nutmeg; filled with light caramel-rum ganache and sultanas; enrobed with Belgian chocolate; and adorned with roasted almonds. Happy Baking To gain more hits than misses , Chef Joey encourages all baking enthusiasts to “follow the steps in the procedure to the letter, from the oven temperature, to the mixing and baking times, and even up to the mixer speeds and sequencing of adding the ingredients.” And once you have discovered that winning formula, memorize it by heart, stick to it, and as Chef Joey recommends, “Keep your formula in a fireproof vault!” And when his sweet tooth is craving, Chef Joey only wants the best. “I have always said that the perfect chocolate cake is a sensual experience that catapults you to a state of unparalleled bliss; where the body, mind, and soul merge into timeless ecstasy.” very microscopic morsel must scream chocolate!” That s how Chef Joey Prats sets the bar for the perfect chocolate cake. After all, he has been wowing his fans for many years now with spectacularly decadent chocolate cakes under his Symphony Sweets label. He also ser ves as Director at the Culinary Institute of Aristocrat, a school that offers a six-week course on the Fundamentals of Professional Baking and Cooking, and a Diploma in Culinary Arts and Kitchen Administration. SYMPHONY SWEETS 7302 Cypress St., Marcelo Green Village Phase I Bicutan, Para--aque City Tel. (02) 823-5235, (0918) 901-5238 JOEY PRATS SIGNATURE DESSERTS LABEL CAKE MIXES Available at: CHOCOLATE LOVER P. Tuazon St., Cubao, Quezon City Tel. (02) 411-7474 BAKE MASTERS 8415 Dr. A. Santos Ave., Sucat, Para--aque City Tel. (02) 825-5123 www.bakemasters.multiply.com COOK S EXCHANGE Branches at Glorietta 4, Powerplant Rockwell, SM Megamall, SM Mall of Asia Whatever the type of chocolate called for, choose the best and finest chocolate you can afford.